The European Union has banned TPO, a key ingredient in many gel nail polishes, after studies suggested it could pose long-term fertility risks (Euro News). Starting 1st September 2025, salons and brands across Europe can no longer sell cosmetic products containing TPO, signalling a big change for the beauty industry. So, what exactly is TPO? Why is it banned? How does it affect you as someone who enjoys gel manicures? Most importantly, what safer alternatives can you turn to? Let’s take a closer look.
What Is TPO and What Is Its Purpose In Gel Nail Polish?
TPO, short for Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, is a photoinitiator. Simply put, it is a chemical that reacts to UV light during a manicure, causing the gel to cure (harden) into a glossy layer that lasts for weeks, keeping nails chip-free and colours vibrant. Without TPO, or another similar photo initiator, gel polish can’t set properly and stays liquid instead of forming a hard durable coating.
So, why is TPO now considered a potential concern?
Why is TPO Prohibited?
The ban follows animal studies, mainly in rats, that showed ingesting high levels of TPO could affect fertility over the long term. The European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety reviewed these studies and raised concerns about TPO’s potential impact on human reproductive health.
While research on humans is still limited, EU decided to take a cautious approach to protect consumers from any possible health risks. Dr. Nalia Dinani, a consultant dermatologist at the Royal University Hospital in Bath, explained in a BBC Sounds podcast that while the actual risk from getting your nails done is likely very low, EU law requires that any chemical flagged as potentially harmful cannot be used in cosmetics. This highlights that the ban is driven by precautionary regulations rather than confirmed evidence of harm from normal use.
For now, this ban applies only in Europe, while TPO is still allowed in the U.S. and most other countries worldwide (Euro News).
What Do Experts Say About The TPO Ban?
Some industry experts have voiced concerns about the scope of this ban. Vogue quoted Claire Aggarwal, CEO of Bio Sculpture (a UK-only brand), as saying that the safety concerns in studies arose only from ingesting TPO, and that “when it’s used on nails, it isn’t ingested.” Similarly, U.S.-based board-certified fertility expert, Dr. Sekhon, noted that the animal studies used far higher doses of TPO than a person would ever encounter during a manicure.
Experts also note that TPO-containing products have been safely used in professional salons for years, and there’s no clear evidence that normal use poses a risk to humans. Many are worried that the ban could limit the choices available to consumers.
How Are You Affected As a Gel Nail Polish Consumer?
Here’s what the TPO ban means for you as a user of gel polish.
Some shades may be harder to find – Your favourite long-lasting colours and brands might temporarily disappear from shelves as brands adjust their products to remove TPO and nail salons are instructed to dispose off all their products containing TPO.
Alternative products may cost more – TPO-free gels may be slightly pricier than the original formulas because creating them would require extra research, testing, and new ingredients, which would increase production costs and, in turn, affect the retail price.
Results may vary – Some alternatives might have some differences in colour, shine, or durability compared to your usual gel nail polish.
Ask before you book – At salons, it’s wise to check with your technician whether the products they use are TPO-free. Even though the EU ban is in effect, some salons may still be in the process of switching, as brands need time to develop and release TPO-free formulas (Vogue).
Check labels for at-home use – If you do your nails yourself, make sure to look for TPO-free gel polish bottles.
How to Spot TPO-Free Gel Polish?
Read the ingredient list: Look for “Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide” or “TPO.” If it’s not listed, it may be TPO-free.
Look for "TPO-free" labels: Many brands now print “TPO-free” directly on the bottle or packaging.
Check the brand website: Reputable brands often list which of their products are TPO-free.
Ask the seller: If shopping online or in-store, ask customer service for confirmation of TPO-free products.
Use safety databases: Some apps and websites let you check cosmetic ingredients for harmful chemicals. You can quickly scan a product’s barcode using apps like Think Dirty, EWG Skin Deep, or Yuka to get safety ratings and ingredient information. For official EU guidance, refer to CosIng – EU Cosmetic Ingredient Database or COSMILE Europe to see ingredient functions, restrictions, and scientific safety evaluations.
Which TPO Alternatives Should You Look for on Labels?
A research paper on TPO alternatives, published by Slate — an AI research tool that tracks cosmetic ingredients and safety — highlights the following most common replacement ingredients used in gel nail polish. The names may look complicated, but if you spot any of them on a bottle, it means the polish is TPO-free and safer.
Ethyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phenylphosphinate or (TPO-L): TPO-L is a safer replacement for TPO that helps gel polish harden quickly under UV or LED lights. It works especially well with light or clear colors, keeping nails smooth and glossy without yellowing. The curing effect, however, can vary a little between brands. On ingredient lists, you’ll see it written as Ethyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phenylphosphinate.
Bis (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phenylphosphine oxide (BAPO): BAPO is a strong alternative that’s ideal for thicker or darker gel polishes and is less likely to cause yellowing over time. Yet, it’s slightly more expensive than TPO, and in some cases, it may cause sensitivity in a few people. Applying a pea-sized amount to one nail first can prevent unpleasant reactions (Slate).
Camphorquinone (CQ): CQ works well under both UV and LED lamps and is generally safe, but it cures a bit slower than TPO. On its own, it doesn’t always work well for deep or dark colors, so brands usually combine it with other ingredients to get the best results.
Hydroxycyclohexyl Phenyl Ketone (HCPK): HCPK is a stable ingredient that helps prevent yellowing and works well under both LED and UV lights. That said, it often needs to be combined with other photoinitiators for full curing and may not work with all LED lamps on its own.
Your Way Forward:
The EU’s TPO ban doesn’t mean you have to stop enjoying gel manicures. By choosing TPO-free products, checking labels, and being mindful of how your gels cure, you can maintain beautiful, long-lasting nails safely. Trusted brands are adapting quickly, and research on safer alternatives is ongoing, with more advanced TPO-free formulas being developed. Staying informed will help you continue your nail routine with confidence.
Photo by Kelly Sikkema on Unsplash